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EP 226: Justen Sjong — How to Master ANY Technique, Send Faster, & Float on the Wall With ‘The Climbing Sensei’
Manage episode 425289474 series 2638497
Justen Sjong (The Climbing Sensei) is a world-class climber and coach who specializes in technique and mental game. This episode is a technique masterclass. We talk about the four stages of technique, how to practice any new skill, how to send faster, his goal to climb 9a before 60, and Justen coaches me on how to float on the wall using his drop-drive-stop method.
Watch the Video Interview of this episode:
EP 226: Justen Sjong — Uncut Video
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Check out Chalk Cartel!
Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!
Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!
Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!
Check out Tindeq!
Use code “nugget” for $10 off your order!
The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!
Use this link for 10% off your first month!
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
- Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt Walter
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/justen-sjong
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:03:25) – Justen’s climbing background
(00:07:27) – Fear and anxiety
(00:11:30) – Some of Justen’s hardest routes
(00:14:55) – Defining “technique”
(00:18:05) – Defining “effective” & “efficient”
(00:21:14) – Reflection & confidence
(00:26:22) – Our three batteries
(00:27:24) – Four Stages of Technique: Balance, Thought, Movement, & Rate
(00:43:06) – Diving into a specific technique
(00:50:48) – Drop, Drive, Stop
(01:02:00) – How to practice Drop, Drive, Stop
(01:11:44) – Structuring practice
(01:14:28) – Pro Tip for Drop, Drive, Stop
(01:16:48) – Alex Puccio’s posture
(01:19:17) – Getting into the moment
(01:21:00) – Three questions
(01:23:45) – Shifting from thinking to feeling
(01:30:36) – How to practice ANY technique
(01:35:47) – Sending things faster
(01:44:57) – The ragged edge & perfect repeats
(01:50:43) – Board climbers
(01:54:06) – Watching & noticing
(01:57:19) – Retiring after ‘Magic Mushroom’
(02:01:13) – Justen’s big goal
(02:03:29) – What he is working on in his climbing
(02:07:47) – Closing questions & nuggets
(02:31:17) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser
322 episodi
Manage episode 425289474 series 2638497
Justen Sjong (The Climbing Sensei) is a world-class climber and coach who specializes in technique and mental game. This episode is a technique masterclass. We talk about the four stages of technique, how to practice any new skill, how to send faster, his goal to climb 9a before 60, and Justen coaches me on how to float on the wall using his drop-drive-stop method.
Watch the Video Interview of this episode:
EP 226: Justen Sjong — Uncut Video
Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!
Check out Chalk Cartel!
Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!
Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!
Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!
Check out Tindeq!
Use code “nugget” for $10 off your order!
The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!
Use this link for 10% off your first month!
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
- Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt Walter
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/justen-sjong
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:03:25) – Justen’s climbing background
(00:07:27) – Fear and anxiety
(00:11:30) – Some of Justen’s hardest routes
(00:14:55) – Defining “technique”
(00:18:05) – Defining “effective” & “efficient”
(00:21:14) – Reflection & confidence
(00:26:22) – Our three batteries
(00:27:24) – Four Stages of Technique: Balance, Thought, Movement, & Rate
(00:43:06) – Diving into a specific technique
(00:50:48) – Drop, Drive, Stop
(01:02:00) – How to practice Drop, Drive, Stop
(01:11:44) – Structuring practice
(01:14:28) – Pro Tip for Drop, Drive, Stop
(01:16:48) – Alex Puccio’s posture
(01:19:17) – Getting into the moment
(01:21:00) – Three questions
(01:23:45) – Shifting from thinking to feeling
(01:30:36) – How to practice ANY technique
(01:35:47) – Sending things faster
(01:44:57) – The ragged edge & perfect repeats
(01:50:43) – Board climbers
(01:54:06) – Watching & noticing
(01:57:19) – Retiring after ‘Magic Mushroom’
(02:01:13) – Justen’s big goal
(02:03:29) – What he is working on in his climbing
(02:07:47) – Closing questions & nuggets
(02:31:17) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser
322 episodi
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