Unlocking Flexibility: Q&A with Coaches Josh and Fran

Lattice Training Podcast

MP3•Pagina principale dell'episodio

5:58

In 1966, two Brazilian men were found dead on Vintém Hill under bizarre circumstances that continue to perplex investigators and conspiracy theorists alike. Lying side by side, their bodies were discovered wearing matching lead masks—shields with no eyeholes—alongside cryptic notes. Were they victims of a cult ritual, a failed experiment, or something even more otherworldly? See Privacy Policy at https://art19.com/privacy and California Privacy Notice at https://art19.com/privacy#do-not-sell-my-info .…

circa un anno fa 1:05:24

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In this week’s podcast join Lattice Training coach,Josh Hadley, and fellow coach
Fran Giacomozzi, as they answer your burning questions about flexibility training for climbers.
Josh and Fran dive into how to improve flexibility, starting with practical tips on specific stretches, including how to utilise different types of stretches such as tempo.

Key Topics Covered:

Integrating flexibility with climbing
At-home body weight exercises
Essential strength training tips for climbers with hypermobility
At-home body weight exercises, including upper body
Managing soreness and dealing with injuries
Strategies to maintain consistent stretching, including setting targets and measuring progress

Join us for this comprehensive episode as Josh and Fran share their expert insights on flexibility training for climbers. Whether you’re struggling with hypermobility, looking to improve your range of motion, or seeking motivation to stretch consistently, this episode is packed with valuable advice and practical tips.

If you enjoyed this episode, let us know! We’d love to do more Q&A sessions in the future. Plus, get 20% off the Flexibility Deep Dive course and our cork yoga Flex Mat - ends 1st July at Midnight.

https://latticetraining.com/product/flexibility-course-bundle/

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

Capitoli

1. Unlocking Flexibility: Q&A with Coaches Josh and Fran (00:00:00)

2. [Ad] Tune in to the Patient Advocacy Voices Podcast today (00:08:19)

3. (Cont.) Unlocking Flexibility: Q&A with Coaches Josh and Fran (00:09:07)

175 episodi

#Sports #Lattice Training #Science #Fitness #Tom Randall

Lattice Training Podcast

Unlocking Flexibility: Q&A with Coaches Josh and Fran

Lattice Training Podcast

52 subscribers

published circa un anno fa

MP3•Pagina principale dell'episodio

Send us a text

Key Topics Covered:

Integrating flexibility with climbing
At-home body weight exercises
Essential strength training tips for climbers with hypermobility
At-home body weight exercises, including upper body
Managing soreness and dealing with injuries
Strategies to maintain consistent stretching, including setting targets and measuring progress

If you enjoyed this episode, let us know! We’d love to do more Q&A sessions in the future. Plus, get 20% off the Flexibility Deep Dive course and our cork yoga Flex Mat - ends 1st July at Midnight.

https://latticetraining.com/product/flexibility-course-bundle/

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

Capitoli

1. Unlocking Flexibility: Q&A with Coaches Josh and Fran (00:00:00)

2. [Ad] Tune in to the Patient Advocacy Voices Podcast today (00:08:19)

3. (Cont.) Unlocking Flexibility: Q&A with Coaches Josh and Fran (00:09:07)

175 episodi

#Sports #Lattice Training #Science #Fitness #Tom Randall

Tutti gli episodi

Lattice Training Podcast

1
Tom Randall Opens Up: Mindset, Burnout & Real Life 1:25:57

2 giorni fa1:25:57

1:25:57

Send us a text In this intimate and deeply thoughtful conversation, climbing legends Tom Randall and Ollie Torr dive into the often unspoken realities behind long-term progression in climbing. From failed redpoints and painful finger joints to redefining success in the face of stress and burnout, this episode is a masterclass in psychological resilience and personal growth. Tom opens up about one of his hardest trips to date, the shifting goalposts of elite performance, and how a mindset of "letting it brew" can lead to more rewarding outcomes - even in failure. Ollie brings his coaching lens to the table, unpacking how climbers can adjust training and expectations when life throws curveballs. Whether you’re navigating injuries, balancing life and climbing, or just need a reminder that growth isn’t linear, this one’s for you. Key topics include: The psychology of projecting routes Why letting goals “brew” improves performance Pain tolerance and aging in climbing Balancing sponsorship with personal struggles Finding joy in the process, not just the send Tune in to hear how two of climbing’s most influential voices navigate the long road, and why the best projects take time. The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

Lattice Training Podcast

1
From Burnout to Breakthrough: Drew Ruana’s Analytical Approach to Climbing 1:20:33

23 giorni fa1:20:33

1:20:33

Send us a text In this episode of the Lattice Training Podcast, Ollie Torr sits down with Drew Ruana , one of the strongest and most analytical climbers in the game today. Drew shares an unfiltered look into his training philosophy, his unique approach to projecting, and how he’s balancing high-level climbing with a degree in computer science. From discussing his "Level 4 Beta" system of optimising climbing efficiency to deep-diving into the mental aspects of performance, burnout, and progression, this conversation explores what it takes to push climbing limits—both physically and mentally. Other topics covered: The role of structured vs. intuitive training How weightlifting and non-climbing strength work fuels his performance The mental side of climbing, burnout, and staying psyched long-term Why goal-setting and patience are the most underrated tools in high-performance climbing His long-term aspirations, including a book on climbing performance Drew is known for sending some of the hardest boulders in the world, but in this conversation, we get a deeper look at the mindset and method behind his success. 🎧 Listen now on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, or wherever you get your podcasts! The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

Lattice Training Podcast

1
Creatine for Climbers: Game-Changer or Overhyped? 1:50:27

6 weeks fa1:50:27

1:50:27

Send us a text In this episode, Ollie Torr is joined by Aidan Roberts , Andy Cave , Maddy Cope , Tom Herbert , and Dr. Ed Gibson-Smith to explore one of the most debated supplements in climbing—creatine. Does it actually help climbers perform better, or is it just another fitness industry fad? The panel breaks down the science and real-world applications of creatine, tackling common questions and misconceptions. Who benefits most? Does it improve power and endurance, or could it even hinder performance? How do diet and training style affect its effectiveness? And what about the infamous "flash pump"—is it a genuine concern or just gym bro nonsense? Ollie even puts creatine to the test himself: 🗣 “Before this podcast, I was taking 5g of creatine every day… now I’m taking none. Here’s why.” Key Takeaways: Power vs. Endurance: How creatine impacts different climbing styles. Recovery & Performance: Does it actually speed up recovery and help you send harder? Creatine & Weight Gain: Busting myths about ‘bulking up’ in climbing. Flash Pump Debate: Real concern or exaggerated worry? Diet & Absorption: Does your diet affect how well creatine works? Join us for a science-backed discussion on whether creatine is a must-have for climbers or just extra weight in your pack. 👉 Tune in now on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, or wherever you listen! Edward Gibson-Smith's Data 👉 https://latticetraining.com/blog/creatine-podcast-supporting-visuals-by-dr-ed-gibson-smith/ The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

Lattice Training Podcast

1
Excalibur’s First Repeat: Will Bosi’s Hardest Climb Yet 52:43

9 weeks fa52:43

52:43

Send us a text In this episode, Ollie Torr sits down with world-class climber Will Bosi, fresh off his impressive ascent of Excalibur (9b+). Will delves into the intricacies of his multi-year journey with the route, sharing insights into the beta refinements and the patience required to conquer one of the world's most challenging climbs. They discuss the significance of micro-beta adjustments, the balance between power and endurance, and the mental fortitude needed to tackle such formidable projects. Beyond Excalibur, Will reflects on his broader climbing journey, including his transition from competition climbing to outdoor pursuits. He shares experiences from notable ascents such as La Capella (9b) and his first ascent of King Capella (9b+) in Siurana, Spain. The conversation also touches on his groundbreaking repeats of some of the world's hardest boulder problems, including Burden of Dreams (V17) and Return of the Sleepwalker (V17), highlighting his versatility and dedication across climbing disciplines. Key Takeaways: Beta Breakthroughs: Discover how micro-adjustments in positioning and technique can unlock new levels of performance. Balancing Power & Endurance: Learn about the unique challenges presented by short, intense routes and how to train for them. Managing Conditions & Patience: Understand the importance of adapting to environmental factors and maintaining patience throughout long-term projects. Transitioning from Competition to Outdoor Climbing: Gain insights into Will's journey from the competition circuit to achieving remarkable feats on natural rock. Future Aspirations: Hear about Will's upcoming projects, including potential trips to Flatanger to explore routes like Silence (9c) and his ambitions within the UK climbing scene. 👉 Don't miss this in-depth conversation with one of the world's leading climbers. Tune in now to gain valuable insights into the mindset, training, and perseverance behind some of the most challenging ascents in climbing history. Available on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, or wherever you listen! The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

Lattice Training Podcast

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Climbing Stronger: Injury Management, Optimism, and the Power of Training Load 1:36:43

12 weeks fa1:36:43

1:36:43

Send us a text In this episode, Ollie Torr is joined by coach and physiotherapist Stian Christophersen to dive deep into the art and science of injury management in climbing. Stian shares his insights on balancing the training load, understanding pain perception, and the psychological tools that aid recovery. From the importance of optimism and goal-setting to the evolving role of technology in rehabilitation, this episode is packed with practical advice for climbers of all levels. Stian also dives into the fascinating concept of the “ comfort crisis ” – a phenomenon affecting modern athletes who avoid discomfort and challenges. He explains why stepping outside your comfort zone is essential for resilience, performance, and overall growth. Key Takeaways: Pain doesn't always equal injury – learn the difference. Early loading for injuries: why it works and how to start. The importance of optimism in injury recovery and beyond. Balancing intensity and volume in climbing training. Managing training load to reduce injury risks and maximise performance. 👉 Don’t miss this deep dive into climbing injury management's practical and psychological aspects. Tune in now to learn how to train smarter, recover faster, and climb stronger. The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

Lattice Training Podcast

1
Finding Balance: Melissa Le Nevé on Climbing, Training, and Dreamtime 8C 1:10:18

16 weeks fa1:10:18

1:10:18

Send us a text In this episode, Lattice coach Ella Russell chats with climbing icon Melissa Le Nevé to dive into her incredible journey from competition success to legendary outdoor ascents. Melissa shares her experiences, from claiming the first female ascent of the iconic Action Direct (9a / 5.14d) in the Frankenjura to her current project on the historic Dreamtime (8C / V15) in Ticino. They explore Melissa’s unique approach to training, including her recent gains in finger strength, her passion for combining climbing with paragliding, and how she balances bouldering, sport climbing, and multi-pitch routes like Le Voyage (E10 7a) and Delicatessen (8b / 5.13d). Whether you're seeking training inspiration or simply love hearing from the greats, this episode offers something for everyone. Key Takeaways Melissa’s transition from competitions to iconic outdoor challenges. Behind the scenes of her first female ascent of Action Direct and her ongoing work on Dreamtime . The difference between French and British training approaches and how Melissa saw surprising finger strength gains. How paragliding complements her climbing lifestyle. Her plans for future projects, including Biography (9a+ / 5.15a) and Bon Voyage (9a E12). Don’t miss this epic episode! Listen now on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, or your favourite podcast platform. The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

Lattice Training Podcast

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Endurance Myths Busted with Coach Cam Hartley & Maddy Cope 1:12:06

19 weeks fa1:12:06

1:12:06

Send us a text In this episode of the Lattice Training Podcast, Coach Cam joins Maddy Cope to explore the ins and outs of endurance training for climbers, setting the record straight on common myths and highlighting what really works. With expertise spanning climbing physiology and performance, Cam and Maddy dive into how climbers can strategically improve endurance, whether through low-intensity steady state (LISS) training or high-intensity interval training (HIIT) . Together, they discuss the importance of energy systems, the right mix of aerobic and anaerobic conditioning, and how climbers can self-experiment to personalize their training for maximum results. Cam also introduces his structured, step-by-step self-experimentation process to help climbers hone their endurance training over time. With insights into recovery, progressive overload, and energy efficiency, this episode is packed with practical advice for climbers at every level. Key Takeaways: Endurance training benefits both boulderers and sport climbers LISS vs. HIIT: How each impacts energy systems and performance Essential recovery strategies for improving endurance Why personalized, progressive training matters more than high-intensity alone Practical tips for tracking, testing, and evaluating training effectiveness Whether you’re new to climbing or looking to break through a plateau, this episode equips you with the knowledge and tools to take your endurance training to the next level! Links mentioned in the episode: https://www.researchgate.net/publication/329814457_The_determination_of_finger_flexor_critical_force_in_rock_climbers https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kwrzgg3jkFQ https://latticetraining.com/blog/training-series-finger-strength/ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QeJc34LZIWI&t=800s https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_EY3XA7e-pw&t=645s The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

Lattice Training Podcast

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How Two Boulderers Freed The Nose 1:04:09

22 weeks fa1:04:09

1:04:09

Send us a text In this episode of the Lattice Training Podcast, host Tom Randall chats with climber and coach Billy Ridal about his recent free ascent of The Nose on El Capitan . They explore Billy's journey from competition climbing to the world of big walls, discussing the physical preparation, mental resilience, and tactical planning essential for success on one of the world’s most iconic climbs. Billy shares his insights on transitioning to big wall climbing, the endurance training required, and how his competition experience played a crucial role. The discussion also highlights the upcoming film, The Nose Job , set to release on November 7th, which captures Billy’s and Alex Waterhouse's climb of The Nose. Their journey from the competition circuit to Yosemite's big walls is a tale of adaptation, physical preparation, and mental resilience on one of the world's most iconic routes. If you're curious about the skills, strategies, and mindset needed for big wall climbs, this episode is packed with valuable insights from one of the sport’s rising stars. Key Takeaways: Billy Ridal's free ascent of The Nose on El Capitan How competition climbing skills apply to big walls Endurance training and preparation for big wall climbing Highlights from the upcoming film The Nose Job Join Tom and Billy for an in-depth discussion that offers a mix of technical advice and gripping adventure stories from the world of big wall climbing. The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

Lattice Training Podcast

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9A Mastery: How Will Bosi is Redefining Elite Bouldering 1:25:01

24 weeks fa1:25:01

1:25:01

Send us a text In this special episode of the Lattice Training Podcast, host Tom Randall sits down with elite climber Will Bosi to discuss his remarkable second ascent of Spots of Time (9A/V17) on Helvellyn. Will offers a deep dive into the physical and mental challenges behind his historic climb, sharing the preparation, training strategies, and mindset that helped him send one of the toughest boulders in the world. Will reveals how he adapted the original sequence for his own climbing style and collaborated with fellow climber Aidan Roberts on beta, making this achievement a true test of both physical endurance and climbing intellect. They also explore Will’s unique approach to training—mimicking moves from the ground to conserve energy and protect skin—and how this method helped him succeed. In addition, the discussion touches on grading comparisons between other legendary climbs, including Burden of Dreams and Alphane , and Will’s thoughts on pushing the limits of elite bouldering. Will also shares insights on his new chalk brand, Bosi Blizzard , crafted to tackle tough conditions and support endurance on the sharpest holds. With insights into the mental toughness needed to handle the pressure at the top, and a sneak peek into his future projects, this episode is a must-listen for climbers aiming to understand the mindset behind high-level ascents. Key Takeaways: Will Bosi's adaptation of beta and sequence for Spots of Time Unique training methods to conserve energy and protect skin while preparing for a major project The mental preparation required for tackling world-class bouldering challenges How Will’s Spots of Time send compares to other 9As he’s tackled The evolution of climbing grades, including potential V18 projects What’s next on Will’s radar, from Japan’s hardest boulders to new UK projects Tune in now for this exciting discussion on breaking boundaries in the climbing world! And for Bosi Blizzard checkout https://williambosi.com/ The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

Lattice Training Podcast

1
Projecting Tactics for 8c and Beyond with Coach Jen Wood 10:11

29 weeks fa10:11

10:11

Send us a text Ever wonder what it takes to break through the hardest routes? In this episode, elite climber and coach Jen Wood shares the tactics that took her from tough projects to climbing 8c and beyond. Jen breaks down the practical strategies she uses, showing how they can be applied by anyone working on a project, regardless of grade. Whether you’re pushing through the 6s or aiming for 8s, this episode offers valuable insights into building momentum, mastering outdoor sessions, and refining your approach to projecting. Topics Covered: Jen shares how consistently climbing outdoors, even just twice a week, has transformed her approach and improved her ability to recognise climbing techniques and tricks. Jen explains how she has built her climbing capacity and improved her skills on higher grades. The importance of knowing when to push through difficult moves and how breaking down routes into manageable sections can make hard sends more achievable. Accessing Try-Hard Mode, and how Jen started power screaming and learning to push her limits. For more insights into the world of climbing, projecting strategies, and mental resilience, listen to the full episode on all major podcast platforms. As a thank you for tuning in, enjoy 15% off Lattice Training Plans with the code PODCAST15. The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

Lattice Training Podcast

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Highlight: Training Like an Olympian with Coach Ollie Torr 21:12

30 weeks fa21:12

21:12

Send us a text Ever wondered how hard Olympic level athlete train? In this episode highlight, which is a thirty-minute snippet of the full episode, host Josh Hadley talks to renowned coach, Ollie Torr , about the high-level physical and mental training that goes into preparing Olympic athletes. Key topics include: Training volume – Ollie explains how elite climbers train between 30-40 hours a week during their base season, including long hours on the wall and skill development. Execution and super compensation – Ollie describes the process of pushing athletes into “training holes,” where they continually push beyond their limits before tapering to recover and reach peak performance. Staying in the game: The importance of mental toughness and consistency, with athletes needing to prioritise training and withstand immense physical and emotional pressure to stay at the top level. Lower body strength & grip training: With dynamic movements and evolving setting styles, climbers need to focus more on leg strength, opposition, and less traditional components of grip training as the holds are getting larger, such as wrist strength, open drag grip positions, and wide pinches. For more insights into the world of Olympic-level training and the challenges faced by athletes, listen to the full episode on all major podcast platforms. As a thank you for tuning into this episode, enjoy 15% off Lattice Training Plans with the code PODCAST15. The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

Lattice Training Podcast

1
Breaking Barriers: Jen Wood's Historic First Ascent and Climbing Evolution 46:01

32 weeks fa46:01

46:01

Send us a text In this episode of the Lattice Training Podcast, host Teresa sits down with British climber and coach Jen Wood, who recently made history with her impressive ascents at Kilnsey and Water Cum Jolly in the UK. Jen also opens up about her toughest first ascent yet— Vela Stivina in Croatia —sharing how the unique climbing style there pushed her both mentally and physically to new limits. Jen discusses her journey, from projecting challenging routes in different climates to her preference for climbing in warmer weather, which has become a key part of her training philosophy. As someone who stepped back from competition climbing, Jen offers a candid reflection on how this shift has reshaped her approach to coaching and outdoor adventures. Key Takeaways: Consistency is Key: Regular time on the rock is essential for building both skill and confidence. Weather Matters: Jen’s preference for warmer conditions shows how the right environment can elevate performance and enjoyment. Stepping Back to Move Forward: Taking a break from competitions gave Jen a fresh perspective, allowing her to refocus on her passion for outdoor climbing. Training Smarter: Jen highlights the differences between preparing for competitions and training for outdoor climbs, emphasising the need to adapt strategies. Balance is Crucial: Rest and recovery are essential for staying at peak performance while pursuing a variety of climbing goals. Climbing Pitfalls: Jen shares common mistakes climbers make when trying to progress to higher grades and offers tips for overcoming these hurdles. Mental Fortitude: Breaking complex moves into smaller, achievable goals is key to pushing your limits. Embracing New Challenges: Success doesn’t always come in the form of initial goals, but personal achievements along the way can be just as rewarding. Expanding Comfort Zones: Exploring different climbing styles and routes helps climbers grow and tackle fresh challenges with renewed confidence. Jen's story is a reminder of how taking on new challenges—whether it’s a first ascent or switching focus from competition to outdoor climbing—can lead to remarkable achievements. This episode is filled with insights to inspire climbers of all levels, offering practical tips and an inside look at Jen's unique approach to climbing and coaching. Stay tuned for more from Jen as she sets her sights on new adventures, including a potential first ascent in Kalymnos! The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

Lattice Training Podcast

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Highlight: Postpartum Power: Sarah Duvall on Climbing, Core Strength, and Recovery After Pregnancy 10:29

33 weeks fa10:29

10:29

Send us a text In today's Lattice Podcast, host Maddy Cope sits down with Sarah Duvall to explore the critical need for improved postpartum care, protocols, support, and education for women. Together, they uncover the significant gaps in research and recovery protocols for postpartum women compared to other injuries. Key Topics Include: Sarah’s Climbing Comeback: Sarah shares her personal journey of returning to climbing after pregnancy, highlighting the challenges she faced and valuable lessons learned. Core & Pelvic Floor Strength: Why prioritising core and pelvic floor strength is essential for postpartum recovery. Addressing Pubic Symphysis Pain: A discussion on common issues like pubic symphysis pain and the importance of addressing muscle imbalances before and during pregnancy. The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

Lattice Training Podcast

1
Climbing Through Time: Steve McClure on Aging, Injury Prevention, and Staying Motivated 36:32

34 weeks fa36:32

36:32

Send us a text In today's Lattice Podcast highlight, host Tom Randall sits down with legendary climber Steve McClure to delve into injury prevention and the nuances of climbing as we age. Life gets more complicated as you get older, but finding inspiration from motivated and strong friends can make a world of difference. Highlights from this Discussion Include: Life and Climbing: How increasing life complexities make it harder to push climbing limits as we age. Motivation from Peers: The crucial role of being surrounded by motivated and strong friends for ongoing inspiration. Ageing and Genetics: Understanding the impact of genetics and self-care on ageing climbers. Maintaining Muscle Mass: The importance of maintaining upper body muscle mass with age. Endurance and Power Endurance: How these aspects can still be improved, despite potential declines in finger strength. Flexibility Changes: Noting how flexibility evolves, with the lower body often retaining better range of motion than the upper body. Motivation and Enjoyment:Emphasizing the importance of motivation and the joy of climbing in maintaining progress over time. This episode is just a thirty minute highlight from a more in-depth conversation covering additional insights on balancing life and climbing as we age. For the full discussion, tune in to the complete episode available on all major podcast platforms. The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

Lattice Training Podcast

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Road to the Olympics: Exclusive Interview with Ollie Torr 1:09:41

35 weeks fa1:09:41