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#114 Tyler Nelson — How Personal Morphology Affects Climbing Performance, Specificity, Unlevel Edges, Talon Grip, and Tim Gabbett’s Paradox

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Contenuto fornito da Testpiece. Tutti i contenuti dei podcast, inclusi episodi, grafica e descrizioni dei podcast, vengono caricati e forniti direttamente da Testpiece o dal partner della piattaforma podcast. Se ritieni che qualcuno stia utilizzando la tua opera protetta da copyright senza la tua autorizzazione, puoi seguire la procedura descritta qui https://it.player.fm/legal.

Dr. Tyler Nelson is the founder of Camp 4 Human Performance, a company focused on bringing the principles of sport science to climbing.

Tyler is focused on being a cutting edge resource for training and rehabilitation of climbers. This means he is always knee deep in research papers from all sorts of sports and asking how we might apply those lessons to climbing. Then he explores these potential findings through testing, ultrasound, and training with some of the best athletes in climbing. Some of his questions and hypotheses have ruffled feathers, but that is exactly what makes Tyler interesting and a valuable asset to our community.

In this episode Tyler goes deep on finger morphology, the frame work for how climbers should understand strength training, why training on an unlevel edge could be useful, what a talon grip is, and a paradox we all run into when starting to strength train.
SHOW NOTES:

Support the show

Support us on Patreon: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE
Follow us on Instagram: HERE

  continue reading

115 episodi

Artwork
iconCondividi
 
Manage episode 437657703 series 3485503
Contenuto fornito da Testpiece. Tutti i contenuti dei podcast, inclusi episodi, grafica e descrizioni dei podcast, vengono caricati e forniti direttamente da Testpiece o dal partner della piattaforma podcast. Se ritieni che qualcuno stia utilizzando la tua opera protetta da copyright senza la tua autorizzazione, puoi seguire la procedura descritta qui https://it.player.fm/legal.

Dr. Tyler Nelson is the founder of Camp 4 Human Performance, a company focused on bringing the principles of sport science to climbing.

Tyler is focused on being a cutting edge resource for training and rehabilitation of climbers. This means he is always knee deep in research papers from all sorts of sports and asking how we might apply those lessons to climbing. Then he explores these potential findings through testing, ultrasound, and training with some of the best athletes in climbing. Some of his questions and hypotheses have ruffled feathers, but that is exactly what makes Tyler interesting and a valuable asset to our community.

In this episode Tyler goes deep on finger morphology, the frame work for how climbers should understand strength training, why training on an unlevel edge could be useful, what a talon grip is, and a paradox we all run into when starting to strength train.
SHOW NOTES:

Support the show

Support us on Patreon: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE
Follow us on Instagram: HERE

  continue reading

115 episodi

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