I migliori Study & Play USA podcast (2024)

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#121 Matt Fultz — BIG MOVES small crimps, Long Term Projecting, Video Analysis, Hardest Board Climbs, Throwing Away His Scale, and How He Coaches on OTG 1:51:26

4h ago1:51:26

1:51:26

You’ve heard of Matt Fultz, but you may not realize just how amazing Matt is. He’s climbed eight V16’s. 8. Eight! By the way, two of them are rarely repeated and recognized as some of the hardest in the world (Hypnotized Minds and Big Z). He’s FA’d 7 climbs V15 and up, including 2 V15’s in one day!! We’re pretty sure that’s a world’s first, but who…

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783: Studying the Biology of Eye Diseases to Inform the Development of New Therapies - Dr. Ruchira Singh 32:31

6d ago32:31

32:31

Dr. Ruchira Singh is an Associate Professor and the recipient of the Dean’s Professorship in the Department of Ophthalmology at the University of Rochester Medical Center where she also has joint appointments in the Department of Biomedical Genetics and the Center for Visual Science. Ruchira studies eye diseases to understand why some people can’t …

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#120 Alvaro Rangel — Coaching Team USA at the Olympics, Not Saying ‘Strong’, The Most Important Skill, Making Finals vs Semi’s, Case Studies, and The Future of Comp Climbing 2:33:21

4d ago2:33:21

2:33:21

Alvaro Rangel, Al, is back on the podcast after 2+ years! Al was one of the first guests and one of the best. The last podcast we did was incredible, but somehow Al managed to top it with today’s episode. He is the founder and head coach of Team Class 5 in San Diego, CA. Al is also part of the Team USA coaching staff and supports the team at World …

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782: Nanoscientist and Physicist Studying the Manipulation of Single Molecules and Atoms - Dr. Philip Moriarty 40:14

13d ago40:14

40:14

Dr. Philip Moriarty is a Professor of Physics in the School of Physics and Astronomy at the University of Nottingham. In addition, he is an avid contributor to the Sixty Symbols YouTube video project and author of the book When the Uncertainty Principle Goes to 11: Or How to Explain Quantum Physics with Heavy Metal. Philip is an enthusiastic heavy …

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#119 Melina Costanza — Elite Mental Training and Performance, Look Good Feel Good Play Good, Getting Hooked on The Outdoors, and The Nuances of Eating As a Top Athlete 2:23:34

7d ago2:23:34

2:23:34

Melina Costanza is an 8x US National Champion. Sometimes as a youth, sometimes as a collegiate, sometimes in Open, sometimes in bouldering, sometimes in lead, sometimes both. Yes, last year at Open Nationals (2023) she won both Bouldering and Lead. She is set to compete in the 2024 Open Nationals coming up in a week, so after you listen to this pod…

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781: Bringing to Light the Benefits of Bacteria and the Connections Between Health and the Human Microbiome - Dr. Patrick Schloss 53:12

20d ago53:12

53:12

Dr. Patrick Schloss is an Associate Professor in the Department of Microbiology and Immunology at the University of Michigan. As a microbial ecologist, Pat is fascinated by bacterial communities. He believes that bacterial communities in and on us are interacting with each other and with us, to keep us healthy. If something goes wrong with these co…

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#118 Ward Byrum — Setting Climbs For Tens of Thousands of Climbers, What Makes A Climb Good, Indoor vs Outdoor Grades, and What A ‘Testpiece’ is at Movement Gyms 2:20:27

10d ago2:20:27

2:20:27

Ward Byrum is the Director of Routesetting for all Movement gyms in the East Region. Yes, that Movement. The biggest climbing gym chain in America and probably the world. That means that Ward and his team decide what the climbing will be like for thousands of climbers. Scratch that, ten’s of thousands of climbers. It might even be hundreds of thous…

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780: Researching Soft Robots, Medical Robots, and Haptics in Human-Robot Interactions - Dr. Allison Okamura 37:38

27d ago37:38

37:38

Dr. Allison Okamura is a Professor of Mechanical Engineering at Stanford University. She also holds a courtesy appointment in Computer science there. Research in Allison’s lab examines three different areas of robotics. The first is haptics, which involves human machine interactions through the sense of touch. The second is designing medical robots…

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EP#54: Fuelling student-athletes for performance both at home and College with Sports Dietitian Lyss Koenan. 48:07

1M ago48:07

48:07

How do you balance athletics and academics while ensuring proper nutrition? In this episode, Director Alexia Bates sits down with Sports Dietician Lyss Koenan to discuss nutritional choices for high school and college aged athletes. Alexia dives into questions for Lyss including new surroundings at college meaning unfamiliar American food and the n…

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#117 Tom Randall — How Fit Climbers Get Strong and Strong Climbers Get Fit, Founding Lattice Training and How It’s Evolved, Why Recovery On Route Is So Important, and What Separates the Good from the Great ... 2:15:58

17d ago2:15:58

2:15:58

Tom Randall is an iconic climber and founder. You might know him as one of the Wide Boyz, as one of the founders of Lattice Training, as a high level coach, or for his 5.14 Trad FA’s or even his FA of the worlds hardest crack boulder, aptly named “The Kraken” [V13]. Ya, Tom’s done it all, and has helped the best in the world do it even better. In t…

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779: Finding Fossils of Extinct Species to Explore the Early Evolution of Vertebrates - Dr. Sterling Nesbitt 55:22

1M ago55:22

55:22

Dr. Sterling Nesbitt is an Assistant Professor of Geosciences at Virginia Tech, as well as a research associate/affiliate of the American Museum of Natural History, the Vertebrate Paleontology Lab at The University of Texas at Austin, the Virginia Museum of Natural History, North Carolina Museum of Natural Sciences, and the National Museum of Natur…

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#116 David Fitzgerald — A Big Zeason [V16], Lucid Dreaming [V15+], His Breakthrough On How To Approach Hard Projects, Creating Hits with Highpoint Productions, and Editing 101 2:00:15

1M ago2:00:15

2:00:15

David Fitzgerald is back after an absolutely incredible season. Dave was previously on for Testpiece Episode #55, a total fan favorite. Last season Dave had a list of climbs in different styles to tackle. Tierrany, a V14 endurance bloc in Yosemite. Equanimity, a V15 ultra tech testpiece in Tahoe. Lucid Dreaming, the V15+ straight forward power prob…

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778: Examining the Role that Blood Vessels in the Brain May Play in Alzheimer’s Disease - Dr. Rachel Bennett 36:00

1M ago36:00

36:00

Dr. Rachel Bennett is an Assistant Professor in Neurology at Massachusetts General Hospital and Harvard Medical School. Research in Rachel’s lab focuses on understanding how blood vessels in the brain change in disease and how this might contribute to the loss of neurons in Alzheimer’s disease. Rachel grew up on the West Coast of the U.S. and loved…

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#115 Garrett Gregor — Olympic Head Routesetter, BTS of Elite Competitive Setting, Grades of the Olympic Climbs, and Do Setters Control the Outcome? 2:26:33

2M ago2:26:33

2:26:33

Garrett Gregor was the head routesetter for the Paris Olympics boulders! That’s all you need to know. Just stop reading this description and start listening now. Garrett is also an accomplished competitor, placing as high as 4th at Nationals, an experienced coach at the legendary Team ABC, and did we mention he’s an elite routesetter?! IFSC Level 5…

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777: Epic Research Investigating Epidemics and Infectious Diseases in Wildlife - Dr. Jamie Voyles 35:52

2M ago35:52

35:52

Dr. Jamie Voyles is an Assistant Professor of Biology at the University of Nevada, Reno. Research in Jamie’s lab focuses on diseases of wildlife. This is an exciting area that spans many different subdisciplines of biology including immunology, physiology, microbiology, ecology, and evolutionary biology. With so many spectacular mountains nearby, J…

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EP#53: Unpacking Junior College Basketball with Dodge City Community College Women's Basketball Coach Landon Steele 58:54

2M ago58:54

58:54

In this episode, Claire sits down with Junior College Division 1 Women's Basketball coach Landon Steele, from Dodge City Community College. They discuss a wide range of topics from what Coach Steele looks for in a recruit, why he enjoys recruiting Aussies and the challenges of basketball recruiting on both the men's and womens' side. Coach Steele a…

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Influence Weekly # 51 - 2024's Top 25 Creators, First Influencer Degree, & AI Startup's $19M Viral Leap 2:51

2M ago2:51

2:51

Welcome to Influence Weekly, the podcast that keeps you plugged into the pulse of the influencer and creator economy. I'm Kailani, and in today’s milestone 50th episode, we're celebrating the movers and shakers of 2024 with a rundown of the 25 most influential creators—from TikTok celebrities to YouTube legends. We'll also explore an exciting devel…

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#114 Tyler Nelson — How Personal Morphology Affects Climbing Performance, Specificity, Unlevel Edges, Talon Grip, and Tim Gabbett’s Paradox 2:13:19

2M ago2:13:19

2:13:19

Dr. Tyler Nelson is the founder of Camp 4 Human Performance, a company focused on bringing the principles of sport science to climbing. Tyler is focused on being a cutting edge resource for training and rehabilitation of climbers. This means he is always knee deep in research papers from all sorts of sports and asking how we might apply those lesso…

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776: Expressing Enthusiasm for Decoding How Genomes are Involved in Human Health and Disease - Dr. Rick Myers 55:03

2M ago55:03

55:03

Dr. Richard M. Myers is the President, Science Director, and a Faculty Investigator at HudsonAlpha Institute for Biotechnology. In addition, Rick is an adjunct faculty member in the Department of Genetics at the University of Alabama at Birmingham. At work, Rick balances being a scientist, running his research lab, and managing administrative respo…

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Influence Weekly #50 - MrBeast's Secret Guide, TikTok Tops YouTube, & Influencers Flood DNC 3:50

2M ago3:50

3:50

Welcome to Influence Weekly, the podcast where we delve into the latest in influencer marketing and the creator economy. I'm Kailani, and in today's packed episode, we're unraveling the secrets behind MrBeast's 36-page guide to YouTube success and the controversies it's stirring up. We'll also discuss how TikTok has edged out YouTube, becoming the …

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#113 Kevin Brown — Literally Everything Your Ever Wanted To Know About Chalk, Founding Friction Labs, Skin Farming, and How To Make Sure You Are Getting The Best Friction On Holds 1:25:20

2M ago1:25:20

1:25:20

This is the episode to learn everything about one of, if not the, most important parts of our climbing kit — chalk! The real topic here is how to maximize friction between your hands and the holds, which is crucial for sending your hardest. Kevin Brown joins the pod and goes deep on the science of how to get the best friction on holds. He talks abo…

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775: Studying the Sensory Physiology of African Clawed Frogs and Other Animals - Dr. Carly Anne York 35:46

2M ago35:46

35:46

Dr. Carly Anne York is an Associate Professor in the Biology Department at Lenoir-Rhyne University. There, she is also the founder and faculty advisor of the student organization SEEDS, which is focused on promoting diversity and accessibility in the life sciences. As an animal physiologist, Carly studies how animals' bodies have evolved to perceiv…

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Influence Weekly #49 - TikTok vs. Snap Battle, Biden's Creator Summit, & Zoé Mahfouz's Rise to Fame 4:25

2M ago4:25

4:25

Welcome to Influence Weekly, the podcast that keeps you at the forefront of influencer marketing and the creator economy. I'm Kailani, and in today's episode, we're dissecting the strategic moves by TikTok and Snap as they aim to outpace Meta's stronghold on influencer agencies. We'll also dive into the highlights from President Biden's first-ever …

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#112 Paris 2024 Olympics — Professional Climber and Coach Tim Kang on The Results, The Routesetting, The Grades, and The Future of Competitions 2:06:24

2M ago2:06:24

2:06:24

Professional climber, coach, routesetter, and frequent Testpiece podcast guest, Tim Kang, is on the pod this week to share his thoughts about the Paris 2024 Olympics. Tim may be best known for his highball ascents that culminated in the film Focus, but Tim is also a seasoned competition climber with multiple World Cups under his belt. Tim loves com…

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774: Continuing the Tradition of Superb Science in Traditional Medicine - Dr. Alain Cuerrier 40:04

2M ago40:04

40:04

Dr. Alain Cuerrier is an Adjunct Professor in the Department of Biological Sciences at the University of Montreal, as well as a Botanist and Researcher at the Montreal Botanical Garden. He works at the intersection of plants and people. The projects in Alain's lab focus on understanding how people use plants and how they perceive nature. Alain love…

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#24 - Mistakes Are Valuable 1:30:36

2M ago1:30:36

1:30:36

Mark EversDi benlef

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Influence Weekly #48 - Trad Wives Drama, Influencers Redefine Travel, & Hot Jobs in Creator Economy 3:33

2M ago3:33

3:33

Welcome to Influence Weekly, the podcast where we delve into the heart of influencer marketing and the creator economy. I'm Kailani, and in today's episode, we're unpacking the ongoing controversy surrounding 'trad wives' and the backlash faced by TikTok star Nara Smith. We'll also explore how influencers are revolutionizing the travel industry, in…

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#111 Tom O’Halloran — How To Do Hard Moves, Using Boards To Climb Better Outside, Toes Knees Hips, Taping Correctly, and What The Olympics Are Like 2:23:48

3M ago2:23:48

2:23:48

Tom O’Halloran is arguably the best climber in Australia. He’s an Olympian, he’s climbed 15a and v14, and done FA’s nearly up to those grades as well. But the reason we wanted to have him on the podcast is because of the amazing YouTube content he puts out. He dives into the nuances of hard climbing in a way that actually helps people climb hard. T…

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773: Directing Our Eyes to the Skies with Stellar Infrared Images of Asteroids, Comets, and Stars - Dr. Amy Mainzer 40:31

3M ago40:31

40:31

Dr. Amy Mainzer is a Senior Research Scientist and the Principle Investigator for the Near Earth Object Wide-field Infrared Survey Explorer (NEOWISE) mission at the NASA Jet Propulsion Laboratory. She is also the Principal Investigator for the Near Earth Object Camera mission proposal and the Deputy Project Scientist for the Wide-field Infrared Sur…

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Influence Weekly #47 - Rise of Influencer Chefs, Fan Power Reshapes Pop Culture, & Cameo's Legal Drama 4:46

3M ago4:46

4:46

Welcome to Influence Weekly, the podcast where we dissect the latest trends in influencer marketing and the creator economy. I'm Kailani, and in today's episode, we're turning up the heat with the rise of influencer chefs—exploring how these culinary stars are changing the way we cook and eat. We'll also dive into a new YouTube report revealing jus…

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#110 Ethan Salvo — Lessons From Climbing The Hardest Climb in Squamish [TWICE?!], Internal Vs External Motivations, and Transcending Grades 1:48:11

3M ago1:48:11

1:48:11

Ethan Salvo is back on the podcast! Ethan's first episode (linked here) was a fan favorite so when Josh visited Squamish for a few days they met up do an impromptu live/in-person recording. Since the last recording, Ethan has climbed arguably the hardest climb in Squamish, The Singularity. The experience he had on it was fascinating and made him qu…

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772: Investigating Venom Evolution and Potential for Targeted Therapeutics - Dr. Bryan Fry 1:01:43

3M ago1:01:43

1:01:43

Dr. Bryan G. Fry is an Associate Professor in the School of Biological Sciences at the University of Queensland in Australia. Bryan studies the evolution of venomous animals over time. His research also examines how we can use venomous substances as physiological probes, to learn about disease states, and in the development of potential therapeutic…

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#23 - Learn How To Crash 1:22:36

3M ago1:22:36

1:22:36

🛫 Episode 23 With Sarah Furness: Combat Helicopter Pilot & Author 🛬 Sarah Furness, an ex-RAF combat helicopter pilot, mother, author, public speaker, and executive coach, joins me in another fascinating conversation about mindset and human performance. Sarah’s story of going from a teenage dream to one of very few female helicopter pilots to serve …

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Influence Weekly #46 - Micro-Influencer Fees Surge, TikTok's Euro E-commerce Gambit, & De-Influencing Wave 6:45

3M ago6:45

6:45

Welcome to Influence Weekly, where we explore the ever-evolving landscape of influencer marketing and the creator economy. I'm Kailani, and in today’s episode, we’re delving into the rising costs of partnering with micro-influencers, as industry rates see significant annual increases. We'll also uncover the details of TikTok’s aggressive push into …

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#109 Noah & Benn Wheeler — The World’s Hardest Campus Move, Most Difficult Board Climbs, FA’ing V12 On 1st Day Outdoors, and How This Generation Sees The Future 2:11:36

3M ago2:11:36

2:11:36

Noah Wheeler and Benn Wheeler represent the next generation of climbers. At 21 and 19, they are some of the strongest board climbers in the world and their styles reflect that. They also are bring a unique point of view to the world of climbing content with their YouTube channel, Wheel Rock. These brothers have climbed up to V16 outdoors, FA’d up V…

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771: Developing Tools, Terms, and Standards for Genome Editing - Dr. Samantha Maragh 48:28

3M ago48:28

48:28

Dr. Samantha Maragh is Leader of the Genome Editing Program and Co-Leader of the Biomarker and Genomic Sciences Group at the U.S. National Institute of Standards and Technology (NIST). She also represents the U.S. as a technical expert on nucleic acid measurements for the International Standards Organization (ISO) Technical Committee on Biotechnolo…

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Influence Weekly #45 - Insta vs. TikTok: The 60-Min Battle, TikTok Usage Drops, & Southwest's TikTok Tour 7:25

3M ago7:25

7:25

Welcome to Influence Weekly, the podcast that dives deep into the pulse of influencer marketing and the creator economy. I'm Kailani, and in today's episode, we're exploring the intense battle between Instagram and TikTok as they vie for user attention with their new 60-minute content strategies. We'll also investigate why daily usage on TikTok has…

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